On Sunday morning I made my way up to snowy Scotland. Tucked up in my fire-warmed cottage, I can't help but think of the chilly journey taken by the crew from a snow-covered 'Constant' to the frozen harbour of Odessa. Here are some excerpts from the journey...
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Wednesday 17th January, 1912
Morning. Among the Greek Islands.
Fore noon watch on deck. Wind ahead, and icy. The hills are
fairly well covered with snow, so no wonder the wind is cold. Noon – Entered
the Dardanelles. I have been several times through here, but never at this time
of year. Did not think so much snow would be seen here as I hitherto have
always seen its sunny with the land pleasantly green, in the good old summer
time.
Stopped at Chanak [Çanakkale], as all ships must, then
satisfying the Turkish officials, and taking a pilot aboard, proceeded on our
way. This was about 3:30pm. When I came on deck at 4pm the town was hidden
round a bend astern. I saw three or four Turkish men-o-war at anchor, all ready
for the action with the Italians if need be. May be.
The Banks of the channel were white with snow, a little of
which was falling, the first I have seen this winter.
At 4:30 it was quiet dark and I had to go on the lookout –
we passed a good many steamers in the night watch. Another day for King George
and ¾d for me that being the princely sum our wages amount to a day. Midnight –
In the Sea of Marmor.
Thursday 18th January, 1912
Middle watch
below. On deck again at 4am straight from the warm fo’c’stle to the cold wheel.
One minute in your bunk, the next, on deck.
Steering Easterly with the coldest wind imaginable from the Nor’rad.
Our bridge is about the most desolate and wretched place that ever a poor
seaman did his two hours on. Notwithstanding the fact that I was well bundled
up with clothes and with socks over my mitts. (The wheel is a brass one).
I was soon chilled. Very glad was I to be relieved at 5 o
clock for coffee. ‘Twas a few minutes respite in which the hot coffee cheered
me up.
Relieved at 6. Went for’ard, had a smoke and then onto the
lookout as it was not quite light and traffic was plentiful. We were nearing
Constantinople….
Did not stop at Constant’ but steamed right on through the Bosphorus.
On either hand a covering of snow lay everywhere. Mosques, minarets and palaces
looked lost looking, seemingly out of place and pining for the sunshine and
more verdant surroundings. What a contrasts to the same locality in the summer
when to journey through is a delightful experience.
Just after 8 bells the anchors was dropped off Kavak
Quarantine Station at the Black Seas end of the Bosphorus, 65 fathoms of chains
being run out. Swinging to the tide the shift nearly fouled another anchored
steamer. For safety, our cable was shortened. As a breeze was blowing and the
ship yawing about, to make things more secure the other cable was run out. The
other ships anchored near were a source of worry. We must not foul them at all
costs. Our jolly boat was lowered after breakfast, four hands taking the
Captain and pilot ashore. There was no orders for the ship so the captain
returned aboard.
This afternoon we were put three in a watch again the
shifting boards being all up. Good. At 10 o clock our watch took the Old Man
and two quarantine men ashore to the Office of Sante. Three other ships boats
were there. After 10 minutes wait the Old Man returned with the orders. Back to
the ship, we hoisted up the boat then weighed anchor. Trinks and I having the
job to stow the chains in a locker. We are bound to Odessa. On passing the
bluff near Kavak we found ourselves in the Black Sea facing a headwind and
swell while overhead scowled a snow laden sky, chilling, fit companion for the
icy breeze.
Course N.E. Ship making 5 knots and driving a lot of piles.
As she is light she lifts a lot, then, down with a bang comes her forefoot on
the swell causing her whole structure to shake and rattle. Pile driving that’s
the name for it, though the boys say now and again, when an extra big thump
wakens up their interest in where they are “That’s another mile stone.” The
night is very dark.
Friday 19th January, 1912
Middle watch on deck. My two middle hours look out. A dirty
raw night with a slight snowfall. Wind still ahead but abated somewhat. Ship
rolling a little.
What a blessing is the clanging of 8 bells to the watch on
deck on a dirty night. “God bless your iron tongue! Say the tars on the deck as
he thinks of the red hot stove in the fo’c’stle.
‘Blankety! Blank! Blank!” growls the watch below. ‘The
darned thins’ always striking infernal noise!” Then they muffled up with all
the gear they can put on, step mournfully on deck to relieve their shipmates.
But a quick relieve is given, as the same is expected. That is a rigid if
unwritten law among seamen. The man who breaks it, will hear something. He
should.
On deck at 8am. Wheel 8 to 10.
Afterwards down the bunkers, sweeping and caulking limber
boards with oakum in order to prevent grain getting in limbers when loaded.
This bunker hold is just abaft No. 2 a thwartship wooden bulkhead dividing
them. It extends to the stoke hold bulkhead (steel) and will be filled with
grain.
In the 6 to 8 dog watch the second mate was for’ard with a
‘manifesto’, a paper whereon was written the quantity and description of each
mans dutiable possessions, as required by the Russian customs. The articles
included: - soap, matches, tobacco, playing cards, revolvers, new clothes,
clocks and watches.
Saturday 20th January, 1912
My wheel 6 to 8 am. Weather intensely cold, freezing in
fact, this my moustache proved for it was soon frozen stiff. The coldest day we
have had. Spread mats in all the holds thus completing preparations for the
cargo.
Shortly after dinner we ran into a soft thin ice. Soon, as
far as we could see all round the compass was ice. I thought it interesting,
even though it certainly was not pleasant. One good thing is, the fact that the
wind has gone down. I could see the red-lead at the ships waterline was
staining the edge of the ice, as we steamed through it. It will clean her
bottom I reckon. About 4 oclock we could see Odessa, but the ‘old man’ did not
seem inclined to make for the entrance, we kept dodging about, round and
round. He must have thought the ice too thick closer in, and (of course) he saw
the darkness gathering.
I went to the wheel at 6 oclock and steered E by S. ½S. for
a while and then due E.
At half past 6 the engines were stopped, the anchor let go,
the cable run our until there was 45 fathoms in the waters, so we lay snug-o
just outside the thick ice.
The lamp trimmer is watchman for the night, he having been
below since dinner time watch and watch being suspended the rest of us can have
a good lay back till daylight that is, after this game of poker is finished.
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